Cortina and Cinque Terre hiking
Lisa and Evan went hiking in the Dolomiti (Italian Alps) around the ski town of Cortina in late September-early October 2002. They also travelled to the western coast of Italy to Santa Margherita. They joined Lisa's parents and family friends there and hiked the famous Mediterranean Cinque Terre hiking path. story by Lisa Schroeder Day 1:
Cortina day hike
We arrived in Cortina the night before and checked into our hotel Mueble Astoria. From here we decided to take a few day hikes around the town. The first day we hiked up to the Col Druscie at 1770 meters. This was an easy path through the forest and ski area. We encountered some remnants from winter sporting events perhaps the Olympics, the most interesting was a bobsled path covered with pine needles. At the top of Col Druscie there was another ski-lift that went even higher to Ra Valles. The majestic Tofana peak at 3244 meters towered over us. This was a good warm up day.
Day 2:
Another Cortina day hike
We hiked up behind Cortina to the ski hut Faloria. The path was up through the forest, very steep and rocky at times, until it evened out onto snow. We ate lunch by Faloria, then continued a little up the ski run and over to hike down a different path. This path was covered with snow so the markings were difficult to follow. At one point Evan went off trail and almost walked off a cliff. Lisa found the real path and both were grateful. The hike down followed an enormous round mountain.
At the bottom of the mountain a friendly German Sheppard followed us into town. We stopped by the Kangaru supermarket, and the dog waited for us outside. We thought he would follow us to our hotel, but we finally lost him somewhere in the town.
Day 3:
Cortina to Refugio Fanes
We started on our 3 day/2 night circular hike down the road and up a well-graveled trail to Refugio Fanes. Because it was so late in the hiking season most of the huts were closed so we were limited to what was open. Right before we got to the hut we passed by a snowy lake, we built a snowman and left it on a bench. The refuge was like a deluxe hotel with clean sheets, down comforters and delicious food.
Day 4:
Refugio Fanes to Refugio Sennes
The hike started down another well-graveled path. Half way down we encountered some school kids, who asked us in German how far away Fanes was, Lisa said "halb stunde." At the bottom of the trail was the shelter Peduru. From there it was a steep hike up. We rested right before the hut on the flat plain overlooking numerous snowy peaks.
We got to Refugio Sennes in the early afternoon. It was another deluxe place and we unloaded our stuff in our private room.
We relaxed on the sunny deck, ordered an appetizer of schinken with bread and coke. There were some bikers on the deck too, a few pigs were running around below.
Day 5:
Refugio Sennes to Cortina
An easy hike back into town. We saw some remnants of WWI including lookout towers and also a monument to some people killed in an avalanche. We overnighted again at the Meuble Astoria.
Day 6:
Travel across the country to Santa Margherita
Day 7:
Cinque Terre hike
This would be a much different hike than through the high altitude trails in the Dolomites. It is a nice walk through five picturesque Mediterranean towns. We took a train from Santa Margherita to the first town of Rio Maggiore. The trail hugged the coast, sometimes winding through ripening olive groves, orange nets were set up underneath to catch the falling fruit. After passing through the second town of Manarola, we continued to hike until we reached Corniglia. Corniglia is the middle town and popular for lunch stops. We ate at a seafood restaurant with a gorgeous view overlooking the ocean. After lunch we were reinvigorated and hiked quickly through the rest of the trail. There were a lot of up and down steps, sometimes made slippery by little streams of water. Evan and I said goodbye to the folks and friends at the fourth town of Vernazza and continued on to the last town of Monterroso al Mare. We ate gelatti to celebrate and dipped our feet in the ocean.
Notes:
It is not uncommon in the Dolomites region for the residents to speak German. This area was hotly contested between Austria and Italy during WWI and there are many remnants of the war on the trails. Our hotel proprietress as well as the Refugio workers were comfortable speaking German as well as Italian. German/Austrian food is also common; you will encounter spaetzle, schnitzel, and goulasch, as well as delicious gnocchi and pasta.
This area is also famous for it’s via ferrata, fixed cables and ladders to assist with difficult terrain. The most famous mountains in the region are the majestic Cinque Torri (five towers), that tower over the Cortina valley.
Getting there:
We flew to Milan and then took numerous buses to trains to buses to get to Cortina. Flying to Venice would’ve been a better alternative because it is closer to the Dolomite region.
Where to stay:
In Cortina, we stayed at the lovely Mueble Astoria
Largo delle Poste, 11
32043 Cortina d'Ampezzo (BL)
tel: 39 0436 2525
fax: 39 0436 878541
email: hastoria.cortina@dolomiti.org
www.cortina.dolomiti.org/hotelastoria
Extremely homey atmosphere, nice rooms, and family run by German speaking proprietress.